How a former central prison and an industrial power barge are being transformed into Southern Thailand’s premier creative hubs

Wander through almost any market or school gate in Thailand and you’re likely to spot a small cart with the unmistakable scent of sizzling batter on a hotplate. The vendor pours thin circles of golden dough, then spoons in fillings ranging from silky custard to mini sausages before folding them neatly into bite-sized rolls.